Hot water tanks and burners

Water Heater Repair in Newmarket

Cold showers make for a bad review. We find the single part that let your water heater down, tell you what it costs to replace, and say plainly when the tank itself is the problem.

Same-visit diagnosis on gas and electric tanks
Draft and gas-leak tests on every heater we touch
Old tank drained, hauled and disposed of
Owned or rented tanks both serviced

Cues for water heater repair

Hot water runs out after a few minutes instead of lasting through two showers.
The pilot on a gas tank lights, then goes out when you release the knob.
Water is lukewarm no matter where the dial sits.
You hear popping or rumbling as the burner fires.
The relief valve drips into its pipe, or there is a puddle under the tank.

Water heater job sheet

Tools on the truck: Combustion analyser, manometer, multimeter, anode socket, drain hose and dolly
Parts we check first: Thermocouple or flame sensor, igniter, gas valve, elements, thermostat, T&P valve
What we disconnect: Gas at the appliance valve, venting at the draft hood, water at the unions
How we prove it: Draft test at the hood, leak test on the gas joints, a full tank to temperature

What fails inside the pipe, and why

Most homes in town run a 40 or 50 gallon tank, gas or electric, often rented. Mineral in the municipal supply settles as sediment on the tank floor. On a gas unit that layer insulates the water from the flame, which is the source of the rumbling. On an electric unit the lower element can end up buried and burn out early.

Power-vented gas tanks are common in subdivisions like Glenway, where the heater exhausts through the side wall. Those add a fan, a pressure switch and a vent run that snow can block in a February storm, and each is a separate possible failure. Electric tanks in condos and townhouses fail differently: a tripped high-limit reset or a scorched wire at the element terminal is far more common than a dead tank.

On the job: tools, parts and steps

Confirm the symptom. We check outlet temperature and listen to the unit run through a cycle.
Test the parts in order. Thermocouple or flame sensor, gas valve, igniter, pressure switch and vent on gas units; thermostats and elements with a meter on electric units.
Check the safety items. The temperature and pressure relief valve, venting and draft get a look on every visit.
Give you a straight read. If the part is a fair fix, we replace it. If the tank is leaking from the shell, no part will save it.

What decides how big the job gets

A thermocouple or element is a modest repair. Gas control valves and power-vent motors cost more, and on a tank past about twelve years old we will tell you honestly whether the money is better spent on a new unit. Our guide to water heater lifespan lays out the ages where that conversation starts. If you rent, the provider may be responsible for repairs, so check your agreement before you book anyone, us included.

Shut it off and call, or book it?

No hot water with no leak can usually wait until morning. A tank pouring water, a relief valve blowing steady, or any gas smell needs action now. Shut the cold supply at the top of the heater and call (365) 517-0623. When replacement is the answer, our gas water heater replacement page explains the swap.

Asked on site

How do I know if my heater is rented?

Look for a sticker from the rental company on the tank, and check your gas or utility bill for a monthly rental charge.

Is it worth repairing a 14-year-old tank?

Sometimes for a cheap part, but the tank shell is near the end of its service life. We will give you both numbers and let you choose.

Why does my tank make a popping noise?

That is water trapped under sediment flashing to steam as the burner fires. A flush can help on a younger tank.