A new pipe from the curb
Water Service Line Replacement in Newmarket
Your water service is the one pipe every tap depends on. When it is old, undersized or leaking underground, we replace the run from the property line into your basement.
- Leak traced to its source before any drywall is cut
- Copper, PEX, Poly-B and galvanized repaired on the spot
- Smallest possible opening, cut clean for patching
- Pressure held and meter dial checked after the fix
Cues for water service line replacement
- Pressure drops sharply when two fixtures run at once.
- The service pipe entering the basement is grey lead or galvanized steel, or badly corroded copper.
- A wet patch in the lawn stays soft in dry weather along the line from the street.
- The water meter dial moves with every tap closed.
- Rusty or discoloured water appears first thing in the morning.
Pipe repair job sheet
- Tools on the truck
- Tube cutters, torch and solder, crimp and press tools, moisture meter, thermal camera
- Materials we meet
- Copper type M and L, galvanized steel, Poly-B, PEX, CPVC and the odd lead service line
- What we open
- The smallest drywall square that reaches the joint, cut clean so it patches easily
- How we prove it
- Pressure on, every joint wiped dry and watched, meter dial checked for creep
What fails inside the pipe, and why
Pipe age follows neighbourhood age. Pre-war houses near Main Street can still have galvanized or even lead services, while homes from the 1950s to 1970s typically ran 1/2 or 3/4 inch copper. Many of those small services were sized for one bathroom and no lawn sprinkler. Frost, settling soil and stray electrical current can each wear a copper line thin over sixty years.
In general, the Town is responsible for the pipe from the main to the curb stop near your property line, and the owner is responsible from the curb stop into the house. Call the Town of Newmarket first to confirm locations and whether any municipal work is planned on your street. Rural lots outside town, such as parts of Queensville, may be on a well instead, and the line from the well is a different job; see well water testing.
On the job: tools, parts and steps
- Locate and permit. We arrange utility locates and any required permits before a shovel goes in.
- Choose a method. Open trenching is reliable; where a driveway or mature tree is in the way, we discuss trenchless options and their limits.
- Install modern pipe. Usually 1 inch copper or approved plastic, buried below frost depth, with a new main shut-off inside.
- Restore and test. We pressure test, flush, and backfill. Landscaping restoration is quoted separately.
What decides how big the job gets
Length of the run, depth, what sits on top of it, the soil, and whether the foundation wall needs a new penetration all drive the price. Interior work, such as re-piping from the new shut-off, is quoted separately; see repiping. We put every item in writing.
One more factor is timing. Frozen ground in January turns a one-day dig into a slower, pricier one, so if the line can hold, booking for spring is kinder on the budget.
Shut it off and call, or book it?
A visible leak at the foundation or water bubbling in the yard needs a call to (365) 517-0623 and a call to the Town. A slow pressure complaint can be planned for spring or fall, when the ground is workable. Ask too about any kitchen work, such as garbage disposal service, you want done while we are on site.
Asked on site
How do I know if my water line is lead?
Lead pipe is dull grey, soft, and a key scratched along it shows a shiny silver line. A magnet will not stick to it.
Who pays for the part under the sidewalk?
It depends on the curb stop location. The Town can confirm where your responsibility starts.
How long will we be without water?
Typically most of one working day, depending on the method and what we find.